These stacking hardware totes give you both. A drill press is a staple in the shop. Upgrade yours with this quick and easy drill press table. A simple, well-built table saw sled is an essential shop jig that will result in repeatable and accurate cuts every time. Some scrap wood and a few simple steps are all it takes to build this basic, must-have shop tool.
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From Early Russia to Imperial Russia Ron, I am no pro, but I am a hobbyist carver outside luthery. I love my bent blade knife for this sort of thing. If you get one, be sure to get a thumb guard also. Practice on scrap because you will dig a ditch in spruce in short order. If you are really impatient, I also have a small sculptor's adze that is almost as effective and subtle as a chainsaw.
I've never tried a scorp, it might work well, I sure don't know.
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Roughing the inside goes pretty fast for me with a gouge and a turned dogwood mallet and a fixture that holds the plate. Just to clarify, I meant I use my knife in detail contouring, not roughing out, though I do know guys who would just whittle away from the start. I took one of my carved body medieval instruments to a power carving demo the other day to ask the presenter what he would use to do the hollowing.
I am working on a router option for roughing also. I have a Tool Trolley system and I am making a raised rail system to keep the router above the work. A poor man's manual overhead router if you will. This is mostly for backs. I am just about to start a jouhikko for someone and I need to carve a rectangle about 5" x 15" almost 2" deep in hard maple. I've been so tempted to purchase a spoon plane from Woodcraft but it's been backordered until April. As far as my list of hand tools go, I've been using my trusty Stubai gouges, one finger plane, Xacto knife, one small pull saw, one micro razor, and a coping saw.
Now I just got some wood from Bruce and I do need to re-saw I got a bunch of balsa and cut honing surfaces for all of my gouges. I use a Veritas rolling guide for my chisels and plane blades. Knives are the only thing I seem to be able to do a decent job on by hand. I don't know if you have a local Craigslist, but the last time I needed resaw help, I posted a plea for help in the tools section and a local turner took mercy on me.
As someone else noted, people think it is cool and want to talk to you about instruments, so if you mention that as your reason for needing resaw help you may get a volunteer. If you borrow a bandsaw to cut out the sides, make sure there's a thickness sander nearby! I've started buying readymade side wood from IV and Stew-Mac, because life is too short for me to make my own with hand tools. Some places Old Standard comes to mind throw in sides with back wood purchases. I'll probably start buying from them when I run out of the maple I have now.
Of course I'd like to be able to use less preprocessed wood, but at the rate I build it would take a loooong time for all those big power tools to pay for themselves. Rev do you have a table saw?
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For sides and table saw works fine for resawing. As a matter of fact for something no taller than sides I would rather use a table saw than a band saw. For resawing a top on a flat top mandolin I ran my wood through the tablesaw one side, the other side, one end then the other end then finished the cut with a hand saw.
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It still needs to be planed, but it gets it close enough that planing it down with a good, sharp bench plane is a piece of cake. Of course if you do not have a tablesaw you are stuck making the entire cut by hand.
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Withthe spruce and a good sharp saw and good technique it is not so bad, on maple you have got your work cut out for you. I can't be comfortable ripping thin side material with a table saw, it can throw them at me! Perhaps sawing most of the way through and finishing the cut by hand would be safer, on a newer saw with a splitter intact. My first ever mandolin was a wall decoration, mini-size, out of basswood. It even had strings, was more or less a door chime with pendants banging the strings as you went in and out. I had never carved anything before so the soft basswood model was a good start at getting the hand motions right and training those rarely-used smaller muscles.
My first harp was built in the woodshop, back in ' University woodshop. I was disappointed that even though I was working from scratch with blueprints, the power tools made the experience way too quick. It was pure bliss, and over in a weekend. I set out to make my second one at home, on the front stoop of ol Green St, Blacksburg.
You can probably still see some damage I did to the steps, resawing bits with a handsaw and all. What a workout. No one can complain about the keeping-in-shape aspect of handbuilding. For planing, I had a long board with a stop in it. I actually screwed that down to the floor of my room when I needed extra push. The curvy neck was done on the stoop with a coping saw. Well I could go on, but I'll just finish it by saying, it's a memory that'll always stay with you.
If I were to recommend some things, and I don't like to say "don't" anything, but try not running to your local woodsmith for help when you need some. Or even Google. Or even here. Necessity is the mother of invention, and if you are confronted with difficulty, you never know the ingenious solutions you might come up with on your own.
Browse tool catalogs, imagine what this or that weird thing does, and see if it works. Worse possible case you have an overly equipped shop -- not a bad thing most tool heads would say. Doing it this way, you'll feel even more accomplished when you see the perhaps resemblance to things other people have been doing to confront similar problems, but that you found it through pure ingenuity.